We walked in at 8pm looking for some dessert. Stepping in felt like entering a time capsule. The cafe was mostly empty but you had the sense it was regal, and historic. I did not know it was built in 1922, by a Portuguese man who had been obsessed with French pastries and art. Designed in an Art Nouveau style reminiscent of the classic European cafes of the time, the interiors are beautifully decorated, and inspired by the Versailles palace. It was the place to see and be seen. My partner pointed out that her grandmother used to visit on special occasions, in a formal attire, and with white gloves to boot.
Tonight, I am in t-shirt and shorts, and the cafe feels quite empty apart from a group of tourists and a mother and daughter. But the elegance of the cafe is not lost on me. Waiters – and it is only men who serve here – dressed in a classic French waiter outfit of black pants, black vest, white shirt and a bow tie, buzz around expertly. We ordered bicas (espresso coffees) and a selection of cookies. A butter cookie, a soft almond orange cookie, a chocolate cookie with raspberry filling, and a coconut cookie with sugared cherry on top.
You could taste the high-quality butter that they had been made with. The coffee was excellent. I’ll be back, this time dressed in a manner more befitting of the cafe (although white gloves might be a stretch), and will try some of their other signature pastries. You’ll be spoilt for choice here so choose wisely, or try everything.